Wat a Relief

Wat a Relief

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Siem Reap’s Wat Preah Prom Rath (Jewelled Lord Brahma Wat) is getting a bit of a makeover, with some fresh paint.

I’ve always been particularly intrigued by this entrance gate.
Ray Zepp’s A Field Guide to Siem Reap Pagodas, Phnom Penh (KEAP, 2000) mentions the ‘maravijaya‘ story on this gate, but not all of the details.

The Wat was founded in 1915, this is definitely more recent. Prior to 1989 there were government controls on Wat expenditures, and this work would have required some money and effort, due to the detail.

I would hazard a guess this gate was built post-UNTAC time, prior to the final surrender of the Khmer Rouge. It might be the work of famed Siem Reap artist Dy Proeung. During my all-too-brief time shooting photos I couldn’t find a credit for it.

Here we have the army of Mara, representing illusion/desire, physically attacking the man who would be Buddha. Note the uniforms. This is an extremely popular scene, depicted around the world in different styles.
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In other images you’ll find Mara’s army wearing clothes that represent whatever the local artist considers in opposition to Buddhism. So here it’s interesting to see them wearing what look like – Mao caps! Could they represent the Khmer Rouge/communists?

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The tremendous will of Buddha is impervious to these efforts.

In a local variation, this story is linked to that of Mae Thoriani (Mother Earth) who wrings water out of her hair with such force that it sprays the forces away…

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And as their weapons turn into flowers, soldiers repent, pray for forgiveness and mercy…

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as some are devoured by Makara (crocodile like creatures).

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I’ll see if I can find a little more info on my next Siem Reap visit.

Links: http://www.keap-net.org
http://www.buddhanet.net/e-learning/buddhistworld/bodgaya.htm

(Thanks heaps to ‘Squatter’, R.Z., and Elizabeth for contextual advice!)

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