Went out to Phnom Bok and Kpal Spean this last Sunday. My friend Paul runs ‘Hidden Cambodia’ Dirtbike Tours and has been encouraging me to go. So I borrowed one of his big 250cc riceburner dirtbikes and came along. Eight people in all. Usually I ride a Samyan 125cc motorbike. It gets me over bumpy roads in Siem Reap, and is pretty adequate for what I have to do. The big bikes use a foot-operated clutch and are a bit heavier, but those are the only major differences. They’ve got more weight, hence more traction, so they sail right over the mud. (Did take a fair bit of it home with me on my clothes though.) Phnom Bok has a tiring climb up to the top of the hill, and the stairs are only half finished. But it’s got some interesting ancient ruins, and a more modern Sihanouk era concrete construction. (Perhaps a stupa?) There are two Soviet antiaircraft guns sitting there, and they’re fully oiled, ready for action. (I think the only invasion on the way now is one of tourists.) You can see a great panorama of the countryside from up top. Didn’t go too far off the main path, there are still probably a few mines on the mountain. Next up was Kbal Spean – ‘the river of a thousand linga’. Here you can find Hindu deities carved into the rock, and linga to bless the water as it flows down to the temples. There’s a great waterfall where you can wade after the tiring trek up. Ahhh.