webbed feet, web log
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blog Cambodia; blog the planet.

Sep 5, 2002

motorcycle + doubler (french) = motodop. The omnipresence of the motodop is perhaps one of the more defining characteristics of Cambodia. Sitting on every corner, cruising every street, the uniform is one of baseball cap and dress shirt (not tucked in). If you walk down a street in almost any major town (especially Phnom Penh) you’ll often encounter them. They are self-employed taxi drivers, which is the default job for many young men in Cambodia. Foreigners don’t know the going rate for a ride. And often they pay a higher rate. They are highly sought after as fares. If you’re a repeat customer, that could have long-ranging effects on your motodop’s life – steady employment, connections with the outside world, regular practice in foreign language. Is it any wonder that it’s hard to walk down the street in central Phnom Penh without their constant presence? And it even gets to the point where it’s annoying. So here’s what I do when I’m accosted by motodops. Often motodops will beep foreigners, as they pass by or from across the street. Cambodians don’t get this treatment. If they’re close by, I just say ‘Ot tee’ (no). If they’re across the street, you can just shake your head. But if they’re really aggressive, you can always play dumb. Catch their eye and shout (OT TEE!) Wave your arms in a warding off fashion, to emphasize your point. The other motodops on the corner will collapse laughing at their overeager friend. Then there are the motodops who follow you down the street. (‘Where you go? Where you stay? You wan’ massage?) You can be humorous: ‘Barang dae, baan tee?’ (Foreigner walks, is that OK?). But if they’re really rude, you can just say ‘Ot jang chi moto’ (I don’t want to ride a moto). And since most of them know basic English, you can just cut to the chase and say ‘No’ or ‘go away’.

- jinja Link

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