webbed feet, web log
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blog Cambodia; blog the planet.

Mar 30, 2006

Point Form

Point Form as things have been hectic: *Geoff Ryman arrived today for workshops (with Nou Hach Literary Journal) and book launch (Monument Books) of 'The King's Last Song'. *Sopheap Pich has a new show opening on the 5th. *We met Sharon May who oversaw University of Hawaii's 'In the Shadow of Angkor' issue of literary journal Manoa. *Geoff is exploring Khmer hip hop and we managed to do interviews with Prach Ly and Silong Chhun. *Lots of Khmer New Year games and fun at the new Cambodian Living Arts house. *The Phnom Penh Arts Festival launched and had a good crowd. * * * * * * Geoff and I are checking out the festival and the diverse crowd attending it. Elizabeth, a Reyum volunteer comes by. A bald kid in old clothes comes up and asks for money. (Shaved heads often mean a quick solution to getting rid of lice and bugs.) Geoff politely ignores the kid who turns his attention to Elizabeth, who he can talk to in Khmer. Eliz doesn't want to encourage begging and is politely firm in saying no. I simply say 'No small change'. Then Delphine from Sovanna Phum shows up and says in Khmer, in an almost maternal tone, "Hey, are you sniffing glue? You shouldn't be doing that, it's really bad for you. Do you have glue? Give it to me." And the kid hands over the bag, and walks away. Tags: ,,,

- jinja Link

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Mar 29, 2006

Bassac Project

Bassac Project A visit to the new Cambodian Living Arts house today, near the National Assembly. It's the first time I've seen the new house, which will help with the transition as the Tonle Bassac community's many artists move out to an uncertain future. Cambodian Living Arts has a team doing a documentation project - Prach Ly, Silong Chhun, Thy Pech and Sharon May. Sharon's big on Cambodian literature and we've been talking about contemporary writers and organizations. Prach & crew are doing lots of interviews and end up getting some impromptu comments from me as well - about living in Cambodia, comics , the land boom (bubble?), and my perspective on the Bassac evictions. I try to contextualize things as best I can, it's a complicated situation. Prach asks if I think freedom of speech exists in Cambodia. I blurt out "Free speech is a natural condition, it exists everywhere. It's like gravity. It's just that there may be consequences if you speak freely." The truth is that we're always free to talk. It's just that you may recieve strong reactions or threats as a result. There are always going to be people who are afraid of open discussion, which I've seen in reactions to my comics and weblog. And there are of course, different interpretations of what is an objective 'fact'. A good day. It was great to sink my teeth into issues about art, and the conditions under which we create. Too often I'm working 'near by' art, but not directly doing art or talking about it. Links: http://www.mujestic.com/cambodia___bassac_project/?msgbrd=1 http://turkish.smugmug.com/gallery/1049250/1/48715201 www.mujestic.com www.the2ndlanguage.com www.tacompton.com www.c-hope.org http://cambodiamorning.blogspot.com/2005/12/bassacs-squatters-ponder-their-future.html http://jinja.apsara.org/blog/2005/11/buyers-market-sellers-market.htm http://khmer.cc/community/t.c?b=12&t=30464 Tags: ,

- jinja Link

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Mar 26, 2006

J7 talk @ Reyum

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Mar 22, 2006

Cinemekong is On

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Mar 21, 2006

'Tis the Season

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Mar 20, 2006

Kambodscha Commentary

Kambodscha Commentary Tharum ist in 'Die Zeit'! Check out page 6. http://www.zeit.de/2006/12/Kambodscha?page=1 English Translation: http://tinyurl.com/grvo2 Tags:

- jinja Link

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Mar 19, 2006

Mak Remissa Exhibition

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Mar 18, 2006

Phnom Penh Arts Festival

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Mar 17, 2006

I Assume There Will Be A Khmer Translation?

I Assume There Will Be A Khmer Translation? I Assume There Will Be A Khmer Translation? Camboland is flooded in Khmer language HIV education stuff but the Vagina Monologues and Poetica Erotica are... only for Barangs? Hiring a translator would be a small expense in addition to the money being spent to put this together. Why should foreigners have all the fun? Poetica Erotica As for me, I take no joy of life except when naked. My lover takes me just as I am; without robes, or jewels, or sandals. Behold me. Bilitis, naked, alone. -Bilitis, PIerre Louys, 1894 A Dinner Poetry Night: Featuring creative Dance and Musical Performances Body Painting, Sketching Erotic Poetry Reading Hotel Intercontinental Grand Ballroom March 18, 2006, 7pm Tickets are Available at VNC, Exotissimo, Hotel Intercontinetal Front Desk. For more info contact Aleks @ 09295 5648 / apnicn [via] yahoo [dot] com Tags:

- jinja Link

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Mar 16, 2006

Nothing to Do?

 
There's a lot more than you think.
I get about one Cambodia arts/event - related email a day, and pass them on to this blog. It's by no means comprehensive, just a place to put these announcements out to pasture.

- jinja Link

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Mar 15, 2006

Phnomenon Interview

Phnomenon Interview

Those who favor tidbits in electronic and culinary form may take a liking to 'Phnomenon', a Cambodian food weblog that has webbed up an impressive amount of unique reviews over the last few months. www.phnomenon.com

Editor Phil dishes up the details on how it came to be:

1. Are you a 'foodie'? Do you have any special dietary needs or is it just that you like expanding your palate?

Foodie? Yes and no. I like quality scoff and swill, and talking about the process of how it was made, grown, butchered, or brewed but I can't be bothered with the pretentiousness and exclusivity that tends to seep into conversations about food. As for dietary needs, there is a Chinese saying that says: "?????????" which means something along the lines of "if its back faces the sky, you can eat it". I'm willing to try anything once, except for primates.

2. Why a food blog?

I didn't want to be another Westerner who came to Cambodia and wrote a vague "how amazing is Angkor" blog, that marvels at the authenticity of their own experience. Every second backpacker who does their week transit from Bangkok to Saigon via Siem Reap has one of those.

3. Why "Phnomenon"? (And who designed the cool logo?)

I'm a devotee of the very bad pun. I designed the logo but the site is a vanilla implementation of the Wordpress (www.wordpress.org) default layout. I'm in the process of re-doing the whole site layout in the same style as the logo but that process involves me learning the vagaries of CSS and having some spare time on my hands.

4. Why street food?

Nobody has written anything about the street food in Cambodia in English, apart from the occasional mention in travel guidebooks that say in all likelihood, Cambodian street food will kill you. As millions of Khmer people can attest this is mostly untrue. I'm also a fan of Saigon food blog, Noodlepie (www.noodlepie.com) which has a heavy orientation towards street food and it left me wondering why no one in Phnom Penh had written anything like it. The street food in Cambodia is similar but mostly distinct from it's neighbours in Thailand and Vietnam, and although the street food scene isn't as developed as either place yet, it is certainly on the way up.

5. Worst meal in Cambodia so far?

Nhoam K'daam Prai (Fermented Freshwater Crab Salad) in Siem Reap at a classic plastic-chair-and-metal-table Khmer restaurant with some of my Khmer workmates. While they're alive, the freshwater crab lives in holes in the rice paddy, where it plays an important role in the ecosystem as a parasite magnet. When they're captured and dead, Khmer people ferment them whole in their own juices and salt water, and then use them raw to make a fresh salad. Obviously, nothing in this process set the alarm bells ringing, not even my knowledge of the term "foodborne trematode". Thanks to the miracle of modern medicine, I've managed to retain most of my own intestinal tract.

6. Contenders for best meal?

That's very difficult. Learning to cook my own fish amok (a mousseline Khmer fish curry) has been one of my highlights, as is my weekend morning routine of shopping at the local markets and grazing on whatever street food I happen to catch sight of along the way. I almost enjoy the process of finding the food as much as the meal

itself.

7. Does exploring cuisine give you additional insights into local life?

Knowing anything about the local food automatically gives you something in common with everyone. Khmer people can be extremely passionate about their own cuisine, especially their rice and dried fish. I can't tell the difference between the nation of origin of rice, but Khmer people can, and will complain vociferously if it isn't Cambodian.

8. How long will you stay in Cambodia, and what future items are you looking to ingest?

My plan is (loosely) two years in Cambodia and I'm almost a year in already. I have a long list of restaurants to try and whenever I see something that I haven't tried on the side of the road, I'll have a go at it. As for my immediate commestible requirements, I'm chasing after a waffle guy at the moment, because my girlfriend brought back a plastic bottle full of thin honey from Mondulkiri last week. Over the last year, there seems to be an influx of wafflemakers into Phnom Penh.

There is also a pantheon of awful beer to be tasted, but I hope I can knock that over quickly.

9. Where do you see your blog going post-Cambodia, if at all?

I'll end it, unless people continue to visit or I can hand over the keys to a successor. One of the problems with writing anything about restaurants or bars in Cambodia is that they have a bad tendency to close after a few months in operation, so the blog will go stale quickly.

10. If Phnomenon was edible what would its culinary analogue be?

A deep-fried beard of bees: crispy on the outside, buzzing and stinging on the inside.

Tags: ,

- jinja Link

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Mar 14, 2006

The PUCLC 2nd Annual Mock Trial

The PUCLC 2nd Annual Mock Trial

The PUC Legal Clinic (PUCLC), with the financial and technical support from Open Society Justice Initiative, Bridges Across Borders and the Cambodian Defenders Project proudly present the PUCLC 2nd Annual Mock Trial.

When: Thursday, 16 March 2006, 5:30pm

Where: PUC South Campus, Conference Hall

No. 144, Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh.

A criminal mock trial is a simulated trial where two teams of law students compete against each other in front of a judge to achieve the verdict (decision) they want from the judge. In a criminal mock trial there are two teams, (1) the prosecution, which works for the government and tries to show that the criminally accused person is guilty of the crime charged; and (2) the defense, which attempts to show that the prosecution does not have enough evidence to prove that the criminally accused is guilty of the crime. In the PUCLC 2nd Annual Mock Trial, the criminally accused is charged with criminal defamation. All participants: prosecutors, lawyers, the plaintiff, the accused, and witnesses are students from the PUC Legal Clinic. Justice Lim Sokuntha, who currently works as a judge in Phnom Penh, will hear the case and decide the verdict. The judge’s decision is based only on the arguments of the prosecutors and the defense attorneys and the evidence presented. This mock trial will be as exciting as a real trial because the teams are working hard to prepare their cases, as if the trial were real. The teams are not allowed to help each other and must work independently and secretly so that the criminally accused has a fair trial.

All PUC students, staff and faculty members, and the general public are cordially invited to attend. Light refreshments will be served at the end of the evening. You may bring guests, co-workers or friends. Seats are unreserved. Please be seated by 5:10pm. The PUC Annual Mock Trial will be conducted in English; however limited Khmer Translation will be available (there are a limited number of translation headphones, thus persons arriving early will have a good chance at receiving translation headphones).

For further inquiries please contact:

Prof. So Sovichea: Director of PUC Legal Clinic at 012-19-18-000 or sovichea@lawyer.com Prof. Bruce A. Lasky: PUCLC Advisor/OSJI Liaison at 012-400-269 or blasky@online.com.kh Ms. Julie M. Sheker: PUCLC PP Legal Advisor at 012-829-371 jmsheker@yahoo.com

Hosted by Paññasastra University of Cambodia Legal Clinic (PUCLC)

[From 'What's On' - http://www.sangsalapak.org.kh/whatson]

- jinja Link

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Mar 11, 2006

Sign Spotting

Sign Spotting I love this kinda stuff. street sign A fun article about hand painted advertising in the Phnom Penh Post this week, 'Signs of Change'. Get yourself to Sun Dew Design if you want one of your very own. Also, click through Mythicaldude's site for more pix. (Go man go!) Tags:

- jinja Link

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Mar 10, 2006

Impromptu Blog Meetup

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Mar 9, 2006

Cambodian Architecture: Where is it going?

Cambodian Architecture: Where is it going? A public lecture series on contemporary Cambodian architecture, is being organised by SangSalapak-Building Arts with the support of UNESCO. All are welcome at the lectures, which are free, in Khmer language and will be on Saturdays 18 Mar, 25 Mar and 2 April. There will be a debate follow-up probably on 6 April at Reyum. Details of the lectures are below. The lectures are by 2 young architects trained in Cambodia, Hok Sokol and Khuy Py, and two more experienced Cambodian architects with international exposure. Ros Borath will talk about the one new building in Cambodia featured in an international publication on modern world architecture. Phuoeng Sophean will talk about the sophisticated, recently completed Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Please pass on this information to any Cambodians you think may be interested khmerarchitecture_en khmerarchitecture_kh Click for larger size images and PDF maps.

- jinja Link

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Mar 8, 2006

Just past the Dairy Queen

Just past the Dairy Queen Woah! A reclining Vishnu carved into a waterfall! 03 A crowd sits near it indifferently. Because it's not Kbal Spean... 02 It's Pochentong Airport, Phnom Penh. And it's suffered less vandalism than the original image. 01 I must say that Artisans d'Angkor has done an impressive job on the airport. When you arrive it's pretty clear that you're in Cambodia and no other country. Tags:

- jinja Link

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Mar 7, 2006

Semaine De La Francophonie

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Mar 6, 2006

Sexy Beer Part 2

Sexy Beer Part 2 [part 1] As one of my first jobs in Cambodia, I taught English at a beer factory. (No, I didn't get a discount or any 'freebies'.) It was fun to see the machinery in action. And I was impressed to see the company investing in their workers. (You can find a roundup of local beers reviewed at phnomenon.com) In the States, someone working on the factory floor usually has no more than a high school education. These workers had good educational backgrounds, some had even traveled overseas to study, during the 1980s socialist era. They were being groomed to move up in the company, perhaps become local management. I also saw the less attractive side of the industry. Beer ads here are hilarious and lack subtlety. Then there are the young women who get a commission for selling their brand of beer. Vans pull up to a restaurant, and empty out their 'beer girls', and usually make a return journey - with substantially less occupants - later that night. Via Maytel, I ran across 3 sites:
http://www.beergirls.org Looks like a fair amount of effort went into assembling these, as well as a lot of well intentioned concern. (The last one seems to be in need of some site tweaks.) Hmm... Testimony of beer girls? Who writes it, who screens it? Also, why aren't these sites in Khmer? Westerners have some clout, but the majority of beer in Cambodia is bought and drunk by Cambodians.
In sober scrutiny it looks like they're based on the efforts of Dr. Ian Lubeck, a Canadian researcher and activist. (Of Dutch origin?)
http://www.fairtradebeer.com/reportfiles/asp041202.html The main ideas promoted are 1. raising the salaries of beer girls, 2. providing medicine to HIV positive beer girls and 3. health education. Number 1 is a tough ask. I just don't see the beer companies ponying up a whopping salary increase. In a commission-based job, an economic incentive is essential. Number 2 would be an innovation. Only a tiny number of NGOs/businesses/institutions in Cambodia are providing anti-retrovirals for their at-risk employees. I have a lot of respect for those who do. Cost and availablity are two factors. Number 3 is key. Not just education for the beer girls, but for everyone who interacts with them. My HIV-positive friends (both foreign and Khmer) end up being educators by default. So many stupid myths out there. Now apparently there's a 'Safe Selling Beer Program' (Heineken/Asia Pacific breweries, mainly education focused) to educate beer girls about HIV risks. Anyone have any more information on this? Newspaper articles, press releases? I'm a little wary of boycotts, unless they're really thought out. Can't I have my beer, and drink it too? I've seen many underthought HIV awareness efforts in Cambodia. Some day I'd like to list a 'greatest hits' of HIV miseducation. I'm not a health expert, nor a beer expert. Looks like I'm going to need to dig up some more info. I speculate that the beer industry will only be changed by people who actually like drinking beer. The above sites aren't exactly a celebration of that. Consumer pressure is the best leverage. I was blessed by the gods in a past life to spend three years in Portland, Oregon which had countless microbreweries. (Terminator Stout, I miss you.) My innovative Aussie housemate Richard used to brew beer in his bathtub, and my friend Jon in the States does the same, creating his own beautifully crafted labels. From a marketing point of view, I'd like to see someone should start a locally bottled brew that comes with an educational label and a condom attached. Drink safely. And while that's fun to imagine, the sad truth is you can go to any small town in Cambodia and find a spot to buy a beer. But it's a bit more difficult to locate a place where condoms are openly available.
Tags: beer,

- jinja Link

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Mar 5, 2006

Heritage Watch, Kickbox

Archaeological Boxing Okay. Imagine you're from a poor family. You don't have a lot of education. You've just dug up some old bones and beads. Someone offers you a lot of money for them. Your whole village is poor. If you don't dig up the grave first, your next door neighbor will. What should you do, tell the police? (Hah. Does *any* poor person really trust the police??) Dougald from Heritage Watch returned from a site visit in Banteay Meanchey this January. He was bummed that people were leveling forests to dig up pre-Angkorean graveyards. The speed and extent is stunning. Here's one of the crew (Kyle) going up in an ultralight to check out the looting. kyle_ultralight (Click for larger photo - all photos here by Heritage Watch unless otherwise credited.) I believe this is Donald Cooney's group. I think they've got a site somewhere. Here's an example of a looted site. grave01 Below: the big holes are the graves, the small holes are the test excavations. All dug up and sold. Doogs stuck a picture up near the office, of a Khmer boxing match. "This is how I feel after seeing all that destroyed." (Picture by John Bugge, given for Dougald's wedding). After a few days of walking past this defeated boxer I started to feel a little glum myself. You've got to have positive mental images, right? I wrote some new dialogue and proofed it with the Heritage Watch staff who know all the correct terms. Then I asked Vuth if I could commission a sketch from him. vuth pic small "Don't steal Cambodia's priceless archaeological Heritage!" "I'm sorry. Don't hit me again." We had some frames left over from the animation exhibition so we just slid in the new picture. vuth_and_pic_small We stashed the original in a corner of the Heritage Watch office and waited for the reaction. Hee hee. If images mess with your head, mess right back. The bigger challenge? Changing the mindset of the entire structure that supports grave robbers. Looters, middlemen, buyers, the whole thing. It's not just about money, it's about ideas. Tags: Cambodia, history, archaeology, heritage, ultralight, boxing

- jinja Link

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Mar 4, 2006

Caught, Can I get a Witness?

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Mar 3, 2006

National Culture Day

National Culture Day 'National Culture Day' will take place at 5:30 at the Veal Men, bordering the Royal Palace, in Phnom Penh. I don't have a program but I believe there will be a number of traditional performances including shadow puppets. I'll try to take a picture or two. Update: Sbaek Thom ('Skin big' - large leather shadow puppets, Cambodian Ramayana) with the action summarized in English. Interesting attempt! I've always wanted to see some translation accompanying shadow puppets. Non-Khmer speaking audiences start to nod off after the first hour. Sbaek thom has been given a UNESCO classification as being significant for national heritage. (Translation from bureaucrat-ese: no money, but they have a stamp of international recognition that troupes can shop round to arts funders.) For the small shadow puppets, (sbaek touch) much is improvised which makes subtitles/translation nearly impossible. But for large shadow puppets the story is set, it's quite feasible. I've got to inquire about which troupe was doing this. Cool! Tags:

- jinja Link

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Mar 2, 2006

White Hand

White Hand mano_blanco Room knea prachan ampuu bukruloi / "Sa'at som" A 'white hand' is a scary symbol in Latin America. But a hemisphere away, in Cambodia, it's part of an anticorruption campaign. This is one of the stickers. (Thanks to Michael for photo help.) "Sa'at som" (in my amateur translation) is someone who never commits a bad action. (I wonder just how much of this derives from Buddhism?) Tags:

- jinja Link

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Mar 1, 2006

Day off

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