Aug 25, 2005
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Aug 24, 2005
Siem Reap Break Part 1
Saturday August 20:
Up early to grab the Mekong Express bus to Siem Reap. ("No responsible for miss time").
Quite looking forward to this, Siem Reap is a great place to visit and an even better place to live. Also along for the ride is Beni, an arts intern who's planning to do some interviews.
We're both culture vultures so we spend a lot of time yakking about art stuff. Beni's trip has been a capsule tour of contemporary arts and I'm working in one of the areas she's particularly interested in, publishing. The 5 hour bus ride flys by.
The bus disgorges itself at the Siem Reap terminal. It's like the boat landing at Phnom Krom, we're surrounded by a chattering crowd of moto taxi and tuk-tuk drivers.
Nothing new there, but what's creepy is the cops who are managing the scene - they've got small sticks (rattan? bamboo?) and use them, hitting the drivers to keep them at bay. While I appreciate their concern, there must be other ways to express it.
There is a small makeshift fence of twine but nobody's really paying attention to it. We are surrounded.
Whack!
"Hey mister, I take you, 100 riel!"
Whack!
I try to get at my camera to get a picture of this surreal scene, but the crowd is pretty frenzied.
"Hey you go with me! I see you first!"
Right. I grab my bag with one hand and Beni's sleeve with the other and we make a beeline through the crowd for the nearest tuk-tuk, and start loading our bags in.
'We're taking this one."
"Oh, he not here," sadly regrets the driver next to us.
The driver runs up and we are on our way to town. I try to squeeze off a picture of the stick wielding cops but it's too late. Dang.
(Below, the aftermath, with most people gone.)
On other visits the bus has cruised up to the town center, I've gotten off, and been completely ignored. (It can be quite gratifying to be ignored, sometimes. )
"How can these guys earn anything for 100 riel?" Beni asks. (That's about 2.5 cents.)
I try to summarize the complex tourism trade that goes on in this town: If a moto or tuk tuk takes you to a guest house, they get a commission. Some have friends or preferred hotels/guesthouses, and will try to steer you to them.
And in addition, having met you on the way into town, they may also work as your guide into Angkor. This could be a three day paying gig, as well as a free English language tutorial. No wonder 'catch the tourist' is such a popular game. Every day though, fishing for tourists is a gamble. One day you get a live one; the next you get hit with a stick.
Next: Exhibition, sculpture, wild bees and wasps.
Tags: Cambodia
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Aug 23, 2005
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Aug 17, 2005
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Aug 16, 2005
C'est Jolie
So Angelina Jolie has been granted citizenship? Quick, cue the media.
Since her time filming Tomb Raider, the actress of the hour has embraced activism, Hollywood style. Better that than apathy.
Interesting that she has chosen Samlot as a place to help out. It was the setting of a rebellion against the 1960s government (beginning with an attack on tax collectors), in what some cite as a flash point for the growth of the Communist party. It was one of the last strongholds of the Khmer Rouge as well. It's now one of the poorest, most heavily mined places in the country.
Maybe with her citizenship she should run for office, (joke!) so far she's created more change than many government officials. In Cambodia she's courted a low profile and worked with relatively good causes, donating money privately, without publicity. Much more than the country made from Tomb Raider, certainly. (Rumor has it that the actual contract for renting out the film location was pasted to one of the stone walls at Angkor, and quickly torn down.)
Tomb Raider's title echoes Raiders of the Lost Ark, a film about another adventurer looting temples. I recall climbing up to Kbal Spean with a friend who'd written a few books on Cambodia. Even a scholar couldn't help but think of his climb up the steep mountain to be an 'Indiana Jones' adventure. Stories stick with us.
Two years later, the 'river of a thousand linga' had one of its bas reliefs damaged by thieves, there were rumors floating around Siem Reap that it was an extortion attempt, even. 'Raiding' and looting indeed.. Who is doing the protecting?
You might try the folks at Heritage Watch, or German Apsara. They don't wield guns, but cameras and toothbrushes. (The latter for stone restoration.)
And having seen the filming helped deconstruct the story a bit for me. Tomb Raider has a cartoony sensibility throughout, whether the action is in London, Cambodia or Siberia. Ultimately?
I'm looking forward to new films and stories, made by Cambodians themselves.
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Aug 15, 2005
Faux 'Histoire'
So what's the scoop on "L'Histoire", the Khmer Rouge themed restaurant?
We saw some strong reactions to the idea from Beth, Manur, and Maytel among others.
After discussing it with friends at lunchtime I had to see for myself. With a map (above) as my guide, I hopped on my motorbike and headed off.
A quick poll of motodops and tuk-tuk drivers outside Tuol Sleng found... nothing.
Perhaps all that ever existed was an advertisement. A hoax? A misprint? A stillborn business venture? I've passed on word to the Phnom Penh Post and Cambodia Daily, we'll see if any more info eventuates.
And while it's easy to get worked up about waiters dressed in black, there are crimes against taste and crimes against humanity.
There are plenty of *real* Khmer Rouge still alive. Just a few streets away from the Documentation Center of Cambodia's offices is a very luxurious villa owned by... Ieng Sary.
While the restaurant may not exist, the echoes of the past are with us on a daily basis.
There's a line that sticks in my head (if I can remember correctly) from Helene Cixous' play regarding Cambodia, about 'crimes that go beyond the human eye to become invisible'.
Maybe we've acquired the habit of ignoring them, out of necessity, complicity, or ignorance.
related link: http://www.krtrial.org
Tags: cambodia khmer rouge
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Aug 14, 2005
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Aug 13, 2005
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Aug 12, 2005
Cafe Khmer Rouge
Tags: cambodia weblog khmer rouge Imagine if you were, say, French. And all people knew about, wanted to ask about, was the Vichy French period. As if there were no other aspect of culture and history.
Via Beth's Blog, I notice that there's a radio show slated about the very sexy topic of Cambodia blogs. http://www.radioopensource.org/cambodias-nascent-bloggosphere/
We're less interested in the, "hey! digital media technology is spreading to the Third World!" factor, and more interested in the notion that Cambodians are using online writing as a way of dealing with their painful, not often discussed past. Their blogs are recording personal and collective memory, sorting through the country's history of brutal repression under Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, and talking openly about wounds that have never really healed.
"sorting through the country's history of brutal repression"
"talking openly about wounds that have never really healed"
Um, which blogs are these? I don't think I've seen them yet. Sounds like this story is already written. (Prove me wrong, guys!)
My recommendation to our friends in the press: explore your story without preconceptions. You may find something new.
Most local tech-savvy Khmer webloggers are under 30, and were born after the Khmer Rouge era. They're products of the postwar baby boom.
Why is it that foreigners are so interested in the Khmer Rouge time? There are activists who would contend brutal repression is going on in the present day. There are plenty of wounds in a society that has huge difficulties with human trafficking, rural poverty, and laws that are poorly enforced.
I find many projects from overseas want to focus on Cambodia's history of war, not its history of art, scholarship, and peace that has survived the very brief Khmer Rouge era and lives on today.
The Khmer Rouge Tribunal is an extremely important issue that has some good people working on it. It certainly is horrific, but must it be used to frame every story? It's actually pretty difficult to find much about the KR time in contemporary Cambodian culture.
This foreign interest comes with dollars attached. Cambodia is not a rich country. The result? Genocide Tourism.
After seeing the above advertisement in a locaI free tourist guide, I gave this number a ring yesterday, and asked about their meals, drinks and unforgettable songs. I was hurriedly told that "we don't do any more."
L' Histoire. For whom?
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Aug 11, 2005
Blog Meeting, Sunday, August 7
3pm-ish: A call from Psar Thmei: Cameras4Cambodia has arrived, for her first visit to Phnom Penh. She takes a moto down to the riverside and we talk about things blog and photo related. It's great to chat to another person who's so interested in local art. She will go to Thailand via Koh Kong the next day, for a break and to catch up with her fiancee.
I take some time to catch up on my email. Email, the stream never stops coming.
6:00 pm: I go over to Hurley's Cantina and find KampucheaCrossings, ThePhnomPenh, and a new person: 'Danny's Blog System'. Also making an appearance is Bhasakhmer, who is happy to let us know KhmerOS will soon make Khmer Unicode blogging software available.
KampucheaCrossings, Bhasakhmer, Tharum
What is this 'Unicode' thing we keep talking about, like it's the holy grail?
I spend a little time discussing the idea of Unicode (with Bhasakhmer's help) with KampucheaCrossings. She is mainly doing her blog for fun, and finds all this technical talk a bit amusing.
Danny is still sorting out the blog landscape of Cambodia, and bemused by the whole experience. He and ThePhnomPenh are pretty advanced at technical issues, and enjoy swapping tips.
Tharum ,ThePhnomPenh, Cameras4Cambodia.
Tharum comes by, and soon after Cameras4Cambodia. Now we have seven bloggers at the table. That's three more than last time.
Missing in action: Lux Mean and Kalabird. Oh well, maybe next time.
Tharum also knows Bhasakhmer as they're both quite involved in the world of Cambodian 'IT' - information technology. Cameras4Cambodia and KampucheaCrossings are happy to finally meet in person. They spend a bit of time catching up and discussing how they blog.
Tharum is quite happy to see the progress since the last meeting: the Global Voices listing is growing. There's been articles in the Cambodia Daily, Phnom Penh Post and Wired. Meanwhile, Khmer language blogs have been started, both by Cambodians and foreigners. And we are learning about all kinds of new things, such as video blogs and blogger meetings.
I take out my laptop to help explain who does which blog. I don't have a wireless connection, just use my browser's cache. Being able to see the sites helps quite a bit. (Maybe next time we should bring a printed page.)
ThePhnomPenh activates his Macintosh and wireless connection and shows off his alpha geek skills - in about 3 minutes he uses www.blogger.com to set up a test Khmer language blog. I askCameras4Cambodia to lend me her camera and snap off a few shots.
Tharum and I discuss future plans. He would like to make it easier for ordinary people to do blogs. After talking with Bhasakhmer and ThePhnomPenh some more, we start to assemble a rough list. Here's my notes, anyway.
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1. Our own portal site. Tharum suggests the 'front end' be Khmer language.
But what should the name be? Khmer domains are about $50 with registration fees. International domains are much cheaper, but more names are taken.
Tharum also recommended we each think of a 'domain name' and vote on it.
For example:
www.khmerblog.net
www.cambodiablog.net
www.blogkhmer.org
www.blog.net.kh
Anyway, something short.
ThePhnomPenh suggests one segment could be a rss-feed sourced page, mixing different posts from different Cambodia related blogs.
I recommend we have a sidebar of blog tools, including Khmer templates for major blog portals: Blogger, Typepad, WordPress, Movable Type, Blogware, Radio Userland, etc. We could web them up as text files. Paste them into your 'template' and you are ready to blog.
2. Everybody wants to get a Khmer Unicode keyboard. Hong says there is a shipment of keyboards on the way from China. Those will go fast. KhmerOS also (apparently) has stickers and key covers. (Before everyone goes rushing over to the KhmerOS office, maybe it is better to email and ask, I don't know if they are for sale!)
3. KhmerOS CD: because it takes forever to download programs in Cambodia.
Even though these programs are still in early stages, it would be nice to have some CDs available with fonts, font breaker programs, installation instructions, everything. These should be available in places like CD World and the Russian Market. Then people could install programs directly.
I would like to see a CD of KhmerOS programs, I'd make many more copies for my friends! I suggest that they should design a nice cover to make it look like a commercial CD. If it looks like a commercial product, the local CD shops would copy it immediately. Bhasakhmer laughs at that idea.
(If I was an expat Khmer shopping in the Russian Market, I would grab a KhmerOS CD right away. We know Khmer font CDs are already fairly popular.)
4. T-shirts! Most of us would love to see a Mekhala t-shirt. And maybe t-shirts and stickers for the proposed portal site.
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KampucheaCrossings leaves around 8, and soon after Bhasakhmer has to head out.
I apologize to Cameras4Cambodia for all the techie talk. "This time is style, next time will be content."
Around 9:00 people start to fade. The last to go are me and ThePhnomPenh, at 10:00.
More developments soon!
Tags: cambodia weblog
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Aug 10, 2005
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Aug 9, 2005
Transit
Dear friends,
This coming Wednesday, August 17 at 6pm, Michele and Sopheap will have an
art exhibition in Java Cafe and Gallery.
You will find enclosed an invitation which will allow you to have a small
look on their works. There will be installation, sculpture, drawing and
painting.
Looking forward to see you there,
Best to you,
Chers amis,
Ce mercredi 10 aout a 18h, Michele et Sopheap vont avoir une exposition
d'art a Java cafe et gallery.
Ci-joint une invitation avec des images de leurs oeuvres. Il y aura des
installations, des sculptures, des dessins et peintures.
Au plaisir de vous voir a l exposition,
Bien a vous,
--
Linda Saphan
http://saklapel.org/gallery/Linda%20Saphan/
[from 'What's On']
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Aug 8, 2005
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Aug 7, 2005
Strange Visitors
are something Phare is used to, they are open to collaboration and have done some quite unique works.
In addition to the comics project, paintings, and regular art classes, a new circus show is opening tonight. (Do they ever sleep?)
Lisa and I take care of a few errands and have a small goodbye dinner with some of her friends in town. She's leaving tomorrow morning.
But we make sure to finish dinner fast to see the 8pm premiere of the new show!
It's great and I'm impressed by the preparation and presentation. Am especially impressed by the art and backdrops, it's truly professional and I regret not bringing my camera. (All prior pics are borrowed from Lisa's camera.) Ah well, next time.
Early to bed and in the morning, it's back to Phnom Penh!
Tags: Comics Theatre Cambodia
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Aug 6, 2005
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Aug 5, 2005
PHARE Comics Workshop 2005
Lisa Mandel comes to meet me at Sunrise Cafe, just a few blocks from the bus station. Her recent travel was fun, she wants to see more of Cambodia.
We have a coffee and long chat. Lisa is ready to take comics to the next level here, and I'm only too game to help. We brainstorm some draft plans for teaching next year, and some follow-up publishing as well. Then we head out to see how the students are doing.
It's always fun to visit PHARE art school. Check out this funky house the teachers live in.
Tor Vutha is away in France this time, but Srey Bandol is helping out as always.
Lisa is here for her fourth year to teach comics to the students. She and Sylvain-Moizie originally came out in 2001 to teach, and that first session resulted in the book 'Sept Mois Au Cambodge'. After catching the 'Cambodia bug' they have returned regularly to help at Phare art school and have facilitated some impressive student work. Sylvain can't make it this year but is publishing a new book of Cambodia comic memoirs in France.
Collectively the teachers have facilitated some impressive comics, and this time the theme is 'ghost stories'.
For the first time in several years, they've actually been given some money to print! Lisa and Srey Bandol have prepared French and Khmer language versions of the comic, which will be assembled with the help of Libellus Association.
But their scanner isn't working. I set up my laptop and scanner and get moving. The students are putting the last touches on their work. The scanner is a bit wobbly at first. Lisa needs some samples to take back to France, and we should have backups of the art.
Finally I realize the voltage is incorrect, so I connect using a power regulator and the scanner starts to work. The students watch me for a while but once they realize how tedious scanning really is most drift away.
I want to scan not only the student work from this year but also earlier comics. There is some amazing art at the school that needs archiving.
Some luscious full color pages here. It's great to see the students flex their art muscles, they incorporate elements from their own lives that really make these works engaging and fun.
After a scanning stint, Lisa uses my laptop and writes a draft proposal for next year. My French is not perfect but I'll use the writeup as homework for my next tutoring session.
I will take the finished comic art (text will be added later) down to Graphic Roots in Phnom Penh, and share art and ideas with our small world of publishers and funders. The scanner I'll leave at Phare for a future visit and more scanning, it's three years old and I don't think it'll survive another bus trip.
Tags: Comics Cambodia
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Aug 4, 2005
What's cooking at Phare Art School?
A heap of hefty drawing effort going on at Phare Ponleu Selpak Art School in Battambang.
Just what are they up to? That's why I'm taking the 7:00 am bus (and my laptop, and my scanner).
Battambang may be the second largest city in Cambodia, but it used to be the third largest. In the 1970s and 1980s the high population in the Thai border refugee camps ranked it number three.
Like most provincial capitals, Battambang is an island of urbanization amidst a sea of agriculture. We'll see what fish can be caught. Many of the students at this school complete their drawing/music/circus classes and go directly back to farming.
Looks like some good comics are being produced; - our Lisa Mandel seems to have been busy. More details to follow.
Tags: Comics Cambodia
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Aug 3, 2005
Cambodia: Land of Open Source
A welcome surprise in August 02's Cambodia Daily:
'Project Promises Free Khmer Software by 2006'
an article on the Khmer Open Source Project by Matt Reed, detailing how Cambodia rewriting open source programs to operate in non-romanized language. They've already rewritten Open Office programs comparable to Word, Powerpoint, and a web browser (Firefox) and email program (Thunderbird).
Thanks to these efforts, learning English is not a prerequisite to learning how to use a computer. It's quite an ambitious project; check the links below and you'll see that it involves an enormous amount of coding work. It looks like Cambodia is one of the leaders in translating this technology.
But will people choose these new programs over their pirated Microsoft programs? In the States a copy of Frontpage costs over $100. Here at any CD shop it's $2 or less, bootlegged. But it's not in Khmer.
Part of KhmerOS's priority is developing culturally appropriate images and terminology so that these programs will be easily adopted. Then people won't face the eventual challenge of paying exorbitant rates to license software, in a country where the average income is around $2 a day.
They've got beta versions for download, as well as keyboard stickers and a shipment of Unicode keyboards on the way. And besides all this techie stuff, just look at the icons!
Here's the browser, 'Mekhala',
and 'Moyouriea'
I'd buy a t-shirt if they make 'em!
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Khmer Operating System: www.khmeros.info
Open Office: www.openoffice.org
Khmer Operating System Conference report http://tinyurl.com/cezd9
Khmer Localization Case Study: http://www.knowprose.com/node/2385
Linux World News Article: http://www.linux-magazine.com/issue/58/
NiDA: National Information Communications Technology Development Authority
Javier Sola Profile http://www.tacticaltech.org/node/219
*KhmerOS Contribution Page*: do your part!
http://www.khmeros.info/Khmeros_donations.html
Tags: Open Source Cambodia
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Aug 2, 2005
350
(Click for larger image)
Hello,
Douglas Pierre Baulos, Matthew Posey and myself will have an exhibition opening this Friday August 5th in Siem Reap at the Linga at 6:30pm(near to the Red Piano bar).
Here enclosed the invitation, hope to see many of you there.
Best regards,
--
Linda Saphan
[more arts happenings at What's On blog]
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Aug 1, 2005
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